Hartford

The Crunch Survives Takeout

The Korean fried chicken.

Bonchon
West Hartford
March 27, 2024

Sitting down and eating at a restaurant can be a relaxing experience. No food to cook, no dishes to wash, and someone dedicated to serving you and catering to your every whim. But sometimes, you want the ease of not cooking combined with the luxury of eating in bed.

That’s where takeout comes in, but it’s not always a gourmet affair. Bonchon, a restaurant that specializes in Korean fried chicken, is an exception to that general rule. 

One might wonder how Koreans became so proficient at preparing a food that is typically associated with the American South. As with most things, it depends on who you ask. Most sources agree that the original source of Korean fried chicken is the United States, but they differ on whether Koreans exported it from here or whether Americans brought it there. The most popular story is that American GIs fighting the Korean War taught their Korean counterparts how to fry chicken. The best sourced story, though, claims that a man named Yu Seok-ho traveled to the United States, where he learned to fry individual pieces of chicken.

Whatever the origin story, now we can enjoy a Korean spin on an American classic.

I ordered the soy garlic chicken wings, an order of bulgogi, and seasoned French fries. The car ride home was almost unbearable, as the food’s slightly sweet aroma filled the vehicle and beckoned me to take just one bite. But I resisted. I wanted to wait until I could properly pig out.

When I got home, I quickly unboxed everything. The aroma slammed into me full force with a blast of steam that fogged up my glasses. 

Ready to eat

I gingerly grabbed the piping hot food, and made myself what my friend refers to as a grown man’s plate”.

Of course I started with the fried chicken. The most striking thing about it is the distinct crunch, like the sound of glass shattering. Korean fried chicken is well known for its tantalizing crunch, achieved by adding potato starch to a wet batter, and the chicken is fried twice. That maintains the crunch even after the soy glaze is added. The chicken’s skin becomes a well-seasoned shell, but the chicken beneath is just as flavorful. The tender, juicy chicken is a great contrast to the crispy skin, and makes eating each piece a sensational experience.

Bulgogi

Bulgogi is a Korean dish of thin cut, marinated meat, typically beef, that is grilled. It originated in the northern part of the Korean Peninsula. It eventually made its way to Seoul and the rest of the world. Bonchon sautées its bulgogi with mushrooms, scallions, sesame seeds, and onions and serves it on white rice. The bulgogi was cooked perfectly, with just the very edges of the beef taking on a slight burnt texture. Even without the scallions and onions, the beef was bursting with flavor, and was tender enough that it slid easily down my throat with just a few chews. 

One of the great aspects of eating takeout is that you get the combination of professional cooking from a restaurant with the familiarity of home cooking as you season your dish to your liking with your own supplies. I added some spicy chili crisp to the bulgogi to give it a little kick. It made an already amazing dish even better.

Seasoned French fries

Even the French fries were outstanding. I love all forms of potatoes, but French fries are definitely my favorite. I was afraid that during the ride home, the French fries would cool off and lose some of their crunch and consistency. But whatever magic they worked on the chicken, they’d also done to the French fries. They were covered in garlic and other seasonings, and served as the perfect companion to the rest of the meal.

Again, eating out is a special, enjoyable treat, but there’s something equally as special as eating good food while binging The Walking Dead. Bonchon makes it possible to get some of the best Korean fried chicken there is, and take it with you. That’s a win-win if you ask me.

NEXT
Bonchon is open seven days a week.

Jamil goes to the Trinity College Arts Academy to see budding dancers perform. 

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