New Haven

Mixed Company Digs Deep At Jazzy’s

The music and meal were part of the package at Jazzy’s on Orange Street, as the restaurant served up signature platters while the Hartford-based band served up one smoking tune after another. The format of the jazz supper club is a century old, but the sounds and flavors were new; Jazzy’s combined the classiness of the past with the freshness of now.

Patrons could be seated as early as 6:30 p.m. if they wanted to eat before the music started. I arrived early and ordered the Marley, a platter of Jamaican jerk chicken, cabbage, and rice and peas. The waiter offered two heat levels, mild and regular; I went for the regular. If they’d offered a​“hot” option, I would have taken it — I like spicy food — but I found the regular chicken to be an excellent balance of peppery heat, sweetness, and savoriness. The chicken itself was cooked just how I wanted it: the meat tender, supple, and smoky, the skin crispy and so full of flavor that I used some of it as a condiment for the rice and cabbage. The rice and peas had their own tanginess, and the cabbage was full-bodied and cooked just right. All in all, a delightful meal, especially when accompanied by the Billie Holiday, a cocktail involving vodka, ginger, and cucumber that was something of a revelation.

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