Boston

At Burmese Lunch Spot, You Can Have Your Tea and Eat It Too

by Kelley McLaughlin and Sasha Patkin | Jul 27, 2023 10:51 am

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On a bustling corner in the heart of Boston’s Allston Village neighborhood, behind an unassuming storefront, its door flanked by two tidy cafe tables, stands Yoma Burmese Cuisine. Despite the small, dark exterior, Yoma opens up into a surprisingly bright and open interior, its raised ceiling with large illustrations of mountains, temples, and landscapes lending a sense of airiness and calm. One wall features line art depicting each step of the tea leaf pickling process. On the opposite wall is situated the focal point; a large blackboard, hand-painted with gold flourishes, and neat handwriting telling the story of Yoma’s pickled tea.

This story ends with the curiosity-piquing phrase, ​“We hope you enjoy Yoma Myanmar’s Tea, for when the rest of the world drinks tea, we eat Tea.”

With a prompt like that, we could not fail to order the Pickled Tea Salad when we visited Yoma for lunch. At the counter, we made our order. It being the dead of summer, we opted for lighter fare. Pickled Tea Salad ($11.75) and a Yogurt Drink ($4.25), and Spice Mountain ($12.45) and the Rangoon Iced Tea ($3.55).

We sat down for a quick catch-up, though we didn’t get very far as our food arrived in well under ten minutes. We sat in the sun-soaked space, and with a background of quiet music, tucked in. Everything was a medley of flavors and textures, new and yet comforting. (Yes, I think we would go so far as to say that this is comfort food!)

The Pickled Tea Salad (pictured above) is a mouth-pleasing texture combination of crispy fresh veggies and crunchy toasted toppings. A light but distinct tangy pickled note shines through from the tea leaves, providing all of the flavor and dressing that the salad needs. Note that while the portion is generous, this is still very much light fare. For a more filling meal, it would be worth ordering some plata. (A guest at a neighboring table had some, and it looked and smelled divine!)

Spice Mountain is described on the menu as ​“Crispy samosas in chickpea and potato creamy broth, harmonious veggies, and spices.” It delivers exactly that; a bodied and flavorful curry broth with creamy chickpeas and potatoes, a small mountain of expertly crisped tiny potato samosas, and a generous sprinkle of fresh lettuce and cucumbers, which brought brightness to an otherwise rich dish. Optionally, you can stir in some chili powder, which adds heat and accents the rich flavors of the curry broth, or you might even go for the house-made chili crisp!

The Yogurt Drink is sweet and creamy, with a hint of tanginess that is almost fruity. It is thicker than milk but far thinner than yogurt. It is reminiscent of other yogurt drinks, like Yakult or WaHaHa. It makes a great treat, and can pair well with spicier dishes.

And finally, the Rangoon Iced Tea. This was less sweet than we anticipated, but in the best of ways. It is tea forward, possibly an assam, enhanced with cream and sugar. Not at all your average milk tea! To one of us (at least), this is the ultimate summer drink. 

Before you leave, browse Yoma’s market shelves, featuring a selection of Burma’s most famous ingredients; Burmese kimchi, durian mooncakes, tea salad dressing, fried chickpea fritters, and much more. 

With its quiet atmosphere and ample seating space, Yoma is already head and shoulders above other local eateries for a pleasant place to have a cup of tea, do some work, or have a good conversation with a friend. Add in the prompt service, reasonable prices, and interesting dishes, Yoma has all the makings of a cult-favorite food spot (and yes, they do sell T‑shirts). At Yoma, you can truly have your tea and eat it too.

Yorma Burmese Restaurant is at 5 North Beacon St. in Allston. Click here for more information.